[New York Times] If Saint Laurent were alive, he would be 80 years old, but he might be disappointed with today’s fashion industry

Compared with the breakthroughs he has made, today‘s fashion industry seems to have been standing still.

I often wonder how Yves Saint-Laurent, who was born on August 1, 1936, would view the fashion world today.

This is partly because his name has been in the news a lot lately. Next month, the brand he founded will launch a new collection under another creative director. At the same time, it's also because he has made a career out of many of the issues that are front and center not just in fashion, but in broader discussions about the social contract. In fact, he never saw this as a career but as part of the meaning of modernity.

Diversity? Saint-Laurent was one of the first designers to allow black models to walk on the catwalk, and he cited women such as Iman, Katoucha Niane and Dalma Callado as his muses. Naomi Campbell once said that it was Saint Laurent that made her appear on the cover of French Vogue magazine for the first time.

Yet every season, we still seem to be discussing the issue of skin tone in fashion.

The power of the trouser suit? In 1966, he unveiled the first smoking attire (Le Smoking) to the world - a white shirt, bow tie, black dress suit and woolen hat designed for women. He knew what the pantsuit meant to women in 1966. This idea shocked the world. New York celebrity Nan Kempner was once turned away from La Côte Basque restaurant because he was dressed in this way. He could only enter after taking off his clothes. (For management, this kind of clothing is more acceptable.)

However, at the just-concluded Democratic National Convention in Philadelphia, pant suits were one of the options. By wearing a trouser suit, Hillary ushered in a second phase of her public life, making Saint-Laurent's vision transcend fashion and become history.

The democratization of fashion? Saint Laurent made the concept of high fashion ready-to-wear deeply rooted in the hearts of the people. In 1966, he introduced the "Left Bank" brand and ready-to-wear collection. He was the first designer to make his clothes available to consumers outside of haute couture shops. Today, e-commerce takes this even further. This season, the clothes shown on the catwalk by three designers (Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger and Burberry) are available the next day instead of six months later.

As for our current progress and how far we still have to go, Saint-Laurent, who died on June 1, 2008, may not agree with us, maybe he will laugh, maybe he will be frustrated and proud.

Translation: Wei Yanhua

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